San Antonio, Texas, may be best known as the home of the Alamo, but the site of America’s most famous mission is equally steeped in history, charm, and modern big-city attractions. Luckily for Classical Singer Convention-goers, tourism is a big industry here, and the city knows how to entertain visitors.
San Antonio lies in Bexar (pronounced Bayar) County in south Texas, about 90 minutes south of the capital, Austin. Spanish expeditions in 1691 and 1709 explored the area and named the San Antonio River, which flows through what is now the downtown area, and San Pedro Creek, which bordered the presidio and villa built there. The city, originally called San Fernando de Béxar in honor of the then heir to the Spanish throne, was established in 1731. It was the first chartered civil settlement in Texas and served as the provincial capital. Its original residents were comprised of European settlers, mestizos (people of mixed Indian and European blood), and some African slaves. Many battles were fought there during the Texas revolution.
By the mid-1850s, San Antonio was the largest town in Texas and a central stop for the American westward expansion. It served as a Confederate depot during the civil war, and later became a prosperous center for cattle, merchandise of all kinds, and military activity. There was explosive growth in the late 1800s as the railroad came to town. Populated by descendants of the original Spanish settlers, Mexicans fleeing their own revolution, a large number of German immigrants, and Southern Anglo-Americans, it developed a unique flavor still very much present today.
Modern San Antonio’s main economy is derived from tourism, educational institutions, military bases, and its medical research complex. It is home to 16 independent school districts, over 50 parochial schools, over 100 private schools, four community colleges, five accredited universities, and one accredited college. In keeping with its roots, there is a strong military presence, including historic Fort Sam Houston and three Air Force bases: Lackland, Brooks, and Randolph. The large medical research complex includes cutting-edge institutions such as the Brooke Army Medical Center, the University of Texas Health Science Center, the Southwest Research Institute, the Southwest Foundation for Biomedical Research, Wilford Hall Ambulatory Surgical Center at Lackland Air Force Base, and a new 1,500-acre Texas Research Park in western Bexar County.
For convention visitors, however, tourism may be the biggest draw. So when you’re not attending a workshop or flexing your musical muscle in the competition, be sure to take advantage of San Antonio’s many fantastic restaurants, fascinating history, beautiful architecture, and impressive museums. Here’s a convention-goer’s guide to San Antonio!
Downtown
The first need-to-know about downtown San Antonio? There is no free, and certainly no cheap, parking. But don’t despair: there’s plenty to keep you busy downtown, and although you’ll want to stick to the well-lighted touristy areas at night, it’s walkable. The best, cheapest, and easiest way to get around downtown on wheels is to use the streetcar.
Ready to do some sightseeing? Let’s just get it over with. The Alamo (300 Alamo Plaza) is a must. Plan on spending a couple of hours and get in a docent lecture, if you can, or book a tour. Audio devices—complete with sound effects, music, and interviews—may be rented for $7 and are available in English, Spanish, German, Japanese, and French. Look for costumed re-enactors in the gardens and say Hi! to the carp swimming in the irrigation canals (my personal Alamo must-see since childhood).
While you’re in the vicinity, step into the lobby of the beautiful Emily Morgan Hotel (705 E. Houston St.) and enjoy a free glass of agua fresca on a hot afternoon (and it will be hot in May). Visit the magnificent bar at the haunted Menger Hotel (204 Alamo Plaza) next door to the Alamo. Just across the street from Texas’ most sacred shrine is the tacky Alamo Plaza. Stay away, except to cross down to the River Walk.
The Paseo del Rio, the famous River Walk, is certainly worth a turn. Pleasant and shady, it’s also touristy in the extreme and not the place to look for San Antonio’s best (although as a child, no visit to San Antonio was complete without lunch on the patio at Casa Rio (430 E. Commerce St.), for the express purpose of feeding tortillas to the world’s fattest catfish, who lurch up from the river’s murky bottom to gorge on tourist largesse). The River Walk is also a lovely way to navigate the downtown area.
If you’re up for a more comprehensive walking tour, starting from the Alamo, go south on Alamo Plaza, past the convention center, and continue to South Alamo & Water Streets, where you’ll find the wonderful Old Fire Station No. 7, home of the Water Street Irregulars. If you stop by on a Wednesday, you’ll encounter some of the Irregulars busy restoring one of the several antique fire engines, and they will be delighted to chat with you about the station and the engines.
Continue on South Alamo, turn right on Turner Street, and then right again on King William to begin a shady stroll through the historic King William District, the nation’s first designated historic district and home to many beautiful old homes, as well as the Steves Homestead Museum, the Blue Star Arts Complex, and the Pioneer Flour Mill, where you can tour and dine in the attached Guenther House. Get more information about the area and download a free walking tour map here: www.kingwilliamassociation.org/kwa/images/pdfs/kingwilliamwalkingtour.pdf.
Then take the River Walk back toward downtown, come up to street level, and catch one of the streetcars. The Red, Yellow, and Blue line routes are clearly marked and are the best and, at $1.25 RT, the cheapest way to get around downtown San Antonio.
You’ll certainly want to pay a visit to the Historic Market Square at Santa Rosa and West Commerce, an authentic Mexican mercado with stalls selling pottery, jewelry, yard art, candy, art, sombreros, masks, and all manner of souvenirs.
Don’t miss the Institute of Texan Cultures, 801 E. César E. Chavez Blvd., where you can delve into the many different cultures which make up Texas, including Native American, Spanish, German, Mexican, French, Czech, Wendish, Canary Islanders, and over 40 others. Schedule a tour of the Back 40 Living History Exhibit and visit a frontier homestead to experience the life of the pioneers for yourself!
Other downtown points of interest:
• Spanish Governor’s Palace (105 Plaza de Armas) features 18th-century period furnishings.
• San Antonio Museum of Art (200 W. Jones Ave.) is a treasure trove of American, ancient Mediterranean, Oceanic, European, Islamic, and Latin American art.
• San Fernando Cathedral (115 Main Plaza), where Santa Anna once raised the flag of no quarter (declaring that he would take no prisoners) before assailing the Alamo, was built by Canary Islanders in 1731. It is the oldest standing church building and the oldest continuously functioning religious community in Texas.
• Buckhorn Saloon (318 E. Houston St.) is a piece of Texas history, boasting such illustrious patrons as Teddy Roosevelt and his Rough Riders, local writer O. Henry, and Pancho Villa. The Hall of Horns is impressive. And I must admit some nostalgic affection; it was here my favorite and most scandalous aunt shocked my eight-year-old self by ordering me a beer. (It was a root beer. But I didn’t know it at the time.) Today the saloon also houses not only the Buckhorn Museum but also the Texas Ranger Museum.
• Pearl Brewery District (250 E. Grayson St.) is the place to be if shopping’s your thing. Skip the cookie-cutter River Center Mall in favor of this former brewery turned haven for restaurants, local retail stores, music venues, and a farmers’ market.
You can rent a bike from Bike World (5911 Broadway) and continue your tour on wheels. And for a unique Texas experience, catch a film at the Alamo Drafthouse Cinema, where you can enjoy restaurant quality food and craft beer while you take in a classic or contemporary film.
Elsewhere
It’s hard to choose from the wealth of activities San Antonio has to offer, but here are a few of my favorites outside the downtown district:
• The Mission Tour: The Alamo is not San Antonio’s only famous mission. Concepción, San José, San Juan, and Espada, the four southernmost Spanish colonial missions, make up the San Antonio Missions National Historical Park. All are open for free guided tours. Start with Mission San José, where the visitors’ center is located, and pick up a free map. You can also explore them from the River Walk’s new Mission Reach, a stretch of recreational trails, picnic, and seating areas.
• The San Antonio Zoo: All the usual suspects are featured plus a train, butterfly garden, and Australian rainforest environment. If you see the giant African catfish, say “Hi!” for me—they were always my favorites. (3903 N. St. Mary’s St.)
• San Antonio Botanical Garden: Relax and enjoy the Texas Native Trail, the Lucile Halsell Conservatory, the formal gardens, and the Japanese Garden. (555 Funston Pl. at N. New Braunfels Ave.)
• The Witte Museum: Enjoy the vast collection of exhibits related to natural history, science, and South Texas culture. You’ll find everything from dinosaurs to mummies to log cabins and more. (3801 Broadway St.)
• Fort Sam Houston: You’ll need to show ID to get on base, but Fort Sam Houston is worth the trip. It’s the birthplace of military aviation as well as being an important post in the development of military medicine—and the famous Apache chief Geronimo was held here. Visit the small but fascinating museum and the Quadrangle, where an assortment of peacocks, deer, ducks, and other critters are allowed to roam. (Harry Wurzbach and Winans Rds.)
• Amusement Parks: Six Flags Fiesta Texas and SeaWorld are both located about 15 minutes from downtown by car and can be reached by public bus.
Where to Eat
Bring an appetite! Here are just a few of my favorites:
• Green Vegetarian Cuisine: Go for breakfast and try the migas or sweet potato pancakes. (200 E. Grayson St. #120 at the Pearl Brewery)
• NOSH: Amazing small plates and craft cocktails. Whatever you do, don’t miss the truffle French fries. Upstairs, their sister restaurant, Silo Elevated Cuisine, offers a swankier atmosphere and an array of upscale Southern-influenced dishes. (1133 Austin Hwy)
• TexMex: Your best bet is to ask the locals for their personal recommendations. Three of the most often recommended spots are Rosario’s (910 S. Alamo St.), Tito’s (955 S. Alamo St.), and El Mirador (722 S. St. Mary’s St.), all within walking distance of each other in the King William District.
• Boudro’s: If you must eat on the River Walk, Boudro’s offers delicious fresh seafood. (421 E. Commerce St.)
• Sunday Brunch at Las Canarias: Expensive, extravagant, and elegant. Enjoy with abandon—you won’t be eating for the rest of the day. Stations with every kind of delicacy, plus live music . . . it’s a special treat. (112 College St. on the River Walk)
